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The best surf books to read while real sport is suspended

Posted by Sue Steward on
The best surf books to read while real sport is suspended

Reading books about surfing is the best way to learn about the history and culture of the game. From surfing memoirs, surf heritage, and classic surfboards to epic tales and alternative lifestyles, all have been published in great reading materials.

Surf books are usually written by pro surfers, surf journalists, or surf historians. They always have something new, besides the usual surf industry propaganda, to reveal, such as a hidden wave peak, a hot surf destination, a secret wave, wave riding stories, lives of the surf legends, and the transformation of coastal regions.

Fortunately, we’ve selected a list of books about surfing that any surfing fans should read, especially when the real sport is suspended now due to the coronavirus pandemic.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

The Encyclopedia of Surfing is known as the most important surf book ever published. Featuring 1,500 alphabetical entries with 300 illustrations, this must-have book is widely considered the best review of the people, events, equipment, places, and lively history of surfing.

The History of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

The History of Surfing is a great book for those that want to explore how surfing was first seen by James Cook in 1778 and then evolved into the 21st century. Featuring about 500 pages with more than 250 rare photographs, this book is what all surfers should have in their home library.

The World Stormrider Guide

Author: Bruce Sutherland

The World Stormrider Guide is the most detailed surf spot guide that has ever published. By adding description, photos, surf statistics, ocean floor characteristics, and wind patterns, the trilogy helps readers explore the most famous surf peaks.

The Surfboard

Author: Ben Marcus

The Surfboard provides every single example of surfboard formats and shapes. It shows you monstrous “koa” planks from the ancient Hawaiian, from the first wooden and balsa boards to the modern materials.

Surfing News

Piha pro cancelled: A sad day for New Zealand surfing

Posted by Sue Steward on
Piha pro cancelled: A sad day for New Zealand surfing

As the surfing community digests the cancellation of the most prestigious event in New Zealand’s history, the national body running the sport might be set for a cutback of its own.

Next Monday was planned to be the start of the biggest week for New Zealand’s surfing, but the global spread of coronavirus put paid to the Piha Pro, which attracted an impressive field to the country, including Kelly Slater – the 11-time men’s world champion, Adriano de Souza – the 2015 men’s champion, as well as Carissa Moore – the four-time and current women’s champion.

This day is also a sad day for some other sports, waiting to hear how big their slice of the funding pie of Sport New Zealand will be.

There are rumors that some national sporting organizations are in for a rude shock.

A famous national surfing identity claimed that the New Zealand Surfing Organization was considering a funding cut of above 50% from their recent figure of $50,000 per annum.

The Herald tried to confirm that figure with Surfing New Zealand but it received no response. On Monday morning, Sport New Zealand will announce the funding.

If the 50% cut is true, there would be irony given surfing has made it on to the Olympic program for the first time and the country has already qualified Ella Williams and Billy Stairmand, with an opportunity of two more joining them.

However, the greater irony might be the fact that it was reducing funding to its NSO at the same time when the central Government was pouring $1.65 million into the privately run as well as promoted Piha Pro.

There is no revenue that is generated by the World Surf League was obligated to go back into the sport.

The week before the funding announcement is often a high anxiety time for NSOs, especially those who administer niche or minor codes.

Sport New Zealand has announced that the funding’s future rounds are going to be made in alignment with their Strategic Plan 2020-2024, containing five investment principles, the top one being a move towards investing in a program that encourages participation.

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Eight Basic Rules That Every Surfer Must Remember and Follow (Part 2)

Posted by Sue Steward on
Eight Basic Rules That Every Surfer Must Remember and Follow (Part 2)

4. Know your limitations.

Surfing may be a sport that needs, generally speaking, good fitness. If you see that the strength or size of a wave is just too much for your surfing level, don’t get in. If you’ve got the chance to travel to a different spot with less chop, do it. During this way, you won’t be afraid within the water, and your surfing level will improve little by little and with it the dimensions of waves that you simply can catch.

5. Stay far from other surfers when they are on a wave.

Always remember not to get in other surfers’ way whenever they are catching a wave. That is, if you’re paddling in and see that somebody is surfing a wave, you want to always paddle towards the broken a part of the wave and leave the part of the wave that he’s surfing clear. This prevents crashes and conflicts.

6. Respect, tolerance, and community.

Respect the opposite surfers within the water and in particular help anyone who needs it or who seems like they’re in trouble. Not everyone has an equivalent level of surfing, so be tolerant of other surfers who are learning and if you’ll, give them a hand.

7. Safety.

In a potentially dangerous situation, like a possible crash with another surfer once you are paddling a wave, don’t catch it. This is often closely associated with point #3. You ought to know your limitations when aged a wave, knowing that soon you’ll need to dodge twenty surfers who are paddling back. If your level of surfing isn’t excellent, it’s better to be safe and await another opportunity, when the world is a smaller amount crowded.

8. Respect the environment.

Don’t leave trash on the beach once you finish your surf outing. The sole thing you ought to leave behind is your footprints. This is often everyone’s responsibility.

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Eight Basic Rules That Every Surfers Must Remember and Follow (Part 1)

Posted by Sue Steward on
Eight Basic Rules That Every Surfers Must Remember and Follow (Part 1)

If you would like to become a surfer, you must learn the principles of the game. Here is a list of eight basic rules that each surfers must remember by heart because if surfers don’t follow these following basic commandments of surfing, accidents, injuries, and misunderstandings will happen.

1. Right of way.

Surfing right of way are some things important to stay in mind if you would like to possess a pleasant, enjoyable day of surfing. If you’re not an area (a one that regularly catches waves therein spot), wait your turn while giving preference to the locals who at the height. Wait patiently for your turn. Despite the very fact that localism is becoming smaller, this tip can keep you from stepping into a heated argument within the water. Confine mind that priority goes to the one who is closest to the region where the wave breaks, in other words, the primary section where it breaks.

2. Don’t drop in.

If you’re at the height and someone has priority (whether because they’re farther in, or because you only caught a wave), don’t get ahead and take the wave from him. This attitude won’t be taken kindly to by the opposite surfers within the water and you’ll look really bad ahead of them.

3. If you make a decision, persist with it.

If you’re getting to catch a wave, roll in the hay such as you mean it. There’s no worse moment than when you are paddling a wave and it swallows you up since you moved back too late. Once you take a wave, let everyone else at the height know by shouting “Going!” if a wave is merely breaking on one side. If, on the opposite hand, it opens on the proper and therefore the left, allow them to know where you’re going. During this way, you give somebody else the chance to catch the wave on the opposite side.

Surfing Places

Portugal – one of the best destinations to improve your surfing in 2020

Posted by Sue Steward on
Portugal – one of the best destinations to improve your surfing in 2020

Intermediate surfers need good waves, but not ones that accompany zealous crowds or skin-grazing coral. We’ve trawled the earth to seek out vacation spots that provide many easy surf stoke, but also the choice to check your comfort zone. One among them is Portugal!

With outstanding waves, remarkable surf culture, long sun-kissed coastline, and therefore the warmest weather in Europe, Portugal has it all! Furthermore, it’s the foremost affordable country to visit in Western Europe (not counting flights).

Portugal delivers any quite wave you’ll imagine and is one among the simplest places on the earth to find out to surf and amp up your skills. Not only that, but if you’ve got enough experience under your belt, you’ll tackle a number of the world’s biggest and most powerful waves at Nazaré, Cave, and Supertubos.

The central coast is that the most visited surfing destination in Portugal. It can easily be accessed from Lisbon and is home to a number of the most important, most consistent, and most impressive waves in Europe.

Peniche, the capital of surfing in Portugal, is that the proud location of Supertubos, one among the simplest beach breaks on the earth. It’s also one among the simplest places to find out to surf within the country. Ericeira has a high concentration of waves that provide something for all levels and tastes.

The Algarve area has the warmest weather with the most of sunlight in mainland Europe. No matter the time of year, you’ll always find a wave to surf here.

Best time to go: Because of its location, the country may be a swell magnet. Therefore, you can surf in Portugal all year round. The foremost consistent surf are often found between September and April. Throughout the remainder of the year, the waves are smaller and more suitable for beginners.

Surfing News

The Remaining 12 Summer Olympic Qualifiers To Be Crowned in El Salvador

Posted by Sue Steward on
The Remaining 12 Summer Olympic Qualifiers To Be Crowned in El Salvador

The 2020 Summer Olympics, and surfing’s debut in the Games, will kick off in July and August in Tokyo, Japan. But before that, the remaining 12 surfers to qualify need to be crowned – and in an announcement today, we now know where that will take place.

El Salvador will host the 2020 ISA World Surfing Games, where seven women and five men will qualify for the 2020 Games. The event will be held May 9-17th at El Sunzal and La Bocana, a righhander and lefthander respectively. The 12 qualifiers from the ISA World Surfing Games (five men, seven women) will join the other Olympic surfing contenders via the 2019 WSGs, the 2019 CT, and the 2019 Pan American Games – rounding out the grand total of Olympic surfers to 20 men and 20 women. (Note: since two Japanese surfers have already qualified — Kanoa Igarashi via the CT, and Shino Matsuda at the 2019 WSGs — the two slots originally reserved for the host country will be allocated to the 2020 WSGs.)

About the upcoming event, ISA President Fernando Aguerre said that they were very pleased to continue their strong relationship with President Nayib Bukele, Minister Morena Valdez, as well as the government of El Salvador in order to bring another ISA World Championship to this beautiful country. The ISA World Surfing Games would bring an unprecedentedly global attention to El Salvador and the unlimited world-class resource that was its year-round waves.

He also added that Olympic dreams would be fulfilled, creating a highly anticipated level of world-class surfing, camaraderie, and excitement. The universality of the sport would be well displayed with surfers from all continents gathering in peace to celebrate the sport’s Olympic spirit

As a reminder, the surfers already provisionally qualified for the Olympics will be required to surf in the 2020 World Surfing Games. That means the likes of John John Florence, Gabriel Medina, Kolohe Andino, Italo Ferreira, and others will be headed to El Salvador in between Margaret River and G-land.

Surfing News

Surfing legend Slater won’t compete at Tokyo Summer Olympics

Posted by Sue Steward on
Surfing legend Slater won’t compete at Tokyo Summer Olympics

American surfing legend Kelly Slater, seen by many as the greatest of all time, missed out on qualifying for next year’s Tokyo Olympics, where the sport will make its Olympic Games debut.

The 47-year-old American surfer was edged for a spot on the US squad for surfing‘s Olympic debut in July of next year, after John John Florence returned from knee surgery to edge Slater for the last spot at an event in Hawaii earlier this month.

The 11-time world champion who became the youngest and also the oldest to win the crown, inspired a generation of surfing stars with a range of videos of his amazing efforts becoming must-see viewing for both fans and competitors.

Competing as an Olympian would be an epic farewell for a 40-year career than started at age eight in a youth event; however, instead he will be watching the event.

Slater told the New York Times, “I’m going to enjoy it as a spectator,” dismissing any notion that he would end his career soon after missing out on the Summer Games. He added that next year, everyone will continue to see him at the top of a wave.

Although Slater needed a victory at the Pipeline Masters on Oahu’s North Shore in order to secure the title, he lost in the semi-finals, leaving him ranked the world’s eighth but one spot behind 2016 and 2017 world champion Florence, who took the second US men’s team spot behind Kolohe Andino.

Florence, an Oahu North Shore 20 years younger than Slater, was a former protege of the surfing icon.

Florence said that Slater has been his idol since he was a child and the surfing is like a member of his family.

After having missed five of 11 tour events with a knee injury, this year, Florence returned for the season finale. However, he was eliminated in the Pipeline quarter-finals. He sealed his Olympic spot as Slater lost to Italo Ferreira from Brazil in the semis.

Surfing News

2024 Paris Olympics: organizers to hold surfing 10,000 miles away in Tahiti

Posted by Sue Steward on
2024 Paris Olympics: organizers to hold surfing 10,000 miles away in Tahiti

Several years ago, Olympic leaders began pushing the idea that host cities could spread events over a wide region even share with a neighboring country to make the Games more manageable and defray costs.

They probably didn’t have something like this in mind.

On Thursday, the organizing committee for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris announced its desire to hold the surfing competition nearly 10,000 miles away in Tahiti.

French coastal spots such as Biarritz and the Basque Country and Pointe de la Torche bid for the event, but organizers opted for the Teahupo’o break in a part of the world they rightly characterized as “one of the cradles” of the sport.

Conditions there should allow them to successfully hold an event that, well, requires waves.

The Paris 2024 organizers said, “The consistency and the quality of the Teahupo’o wave, at this time of the year, in the middle of Tahiti’s high surf season, should ensure that the Olympic competition will take place more than one week.”

The decision isn’t entirely unprecedented. The 1956 Melbourne Olympics faced strict regulations that required all horses entering Australia to be quarantined for six months, so equestrian events were shifted to Stockholm.

Tahiti makes sense for Paris 2024 since it is part of the overseas territories of the host country. The 48 qualifying surfers will compete during the early days of the Games, then have the opportunity to fly to Paris, where they can live in the Olympic village and take part in the closing ceremony.

The venue must be approved by the International Olympic Committee, which will discuss the proposal at a January meeting.

Organizers used words such as “spectacular” and “extraordinary” in describing Teahupo’o, adding that it would “allow Paris 2024 to resonate all the way to the heart of the Pacific Ocean.”

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How to take care of surfers’ skin (part 3)

Posted by Sue Steward on
How to take care of surfers’ skin (part 3)

5. Hydrate Your Skin

When you spend hours in the ocean, your need for water goes up, and your skin can reflect that.

There is no use in lathering it with lush oils and creams if you don’t hydrate it from inside out.

Water is vital for skin health, and as a surfer, you should drink plenty of it. Keep a glass bottle of water always at hand, and drink it before and after surfing.

If you don’t particularly appreciate pure water, you can always make a delicious handmade fruit juice or fragrant flavored water.

There are plenty zero-effort recipes out there, so no excuses to opt for unhealthy and sugared drinks, that will do the opposite of what is intended.

6. Eat Right

Water isn’t the only source of hydration.

A healthy diet keeps your skin balanced and more resistant, while also boosting the action of the products that you put on its surface.

Rich fruits and healthy vegetables are also packed with H2O, with the added benefit of minerals, vitamins, and many other fantastic components.

Some foods are particularly beneficial, such as avocados, fatty fish, olive oil, almonds, carrots, green tea, citrus fruits, berries, broccoli, peppers, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, greek yogurt, and eggs.

7. Act When Something Is Wrong

Every time you notice something wrong with your skin, look for medical advice. The skin is the biggest organ on our body, and it often reveals underlying issues.

We are not only talking about skin cancer symptoms, but also little ailments that can become big problems if unattended.

Alterations in moles, spots, persistent rashes, broken skin, or nail fungus, they all should be checked by a specialist.

Now that you know how to care for your skin, it’s time to have fun in the waves. It’s incredible out there.

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How to take care of surfers’ skin (part 2)

Posted by Sue Steward on
How to take care of surfers’ skin (part 2)

3. Moisturize Your Skin

After cleaning, it’s time to moisturize. Here, the options are endless.

For the body, chose between oils, creams, or lotions, according to your needs at the time.

You can have a nourishing cream to pack extra moisture when surfing more intensely, a quick-absorbing lotion with a dispenser to wear on the go.

For the lazy ones, oils and spray formulations are the right choice.

An after-sun lotion or aloe vera gel is always helpful in the summer. They calm the skin and boost its recovery after sun exposure.

As for the face, find a quality cream that suits your skin type and apply it morning, evening, and every time you wash it in the shower after surfing.

Depending on their needs, some people benefit from dermatologist-formulated skincare products.

If you have extra sensitive or reactive skin, melasma, or are prone to breakouts, we take you back to the first step and advise you to contact a dermatologist to find out what is best for you.

Another useful tip: hands and feet are often dismissed at this stage. Don’t forget to wear hand cream and apply frequently.

Care for your feet with a rich foot cream to prevent hard, dried skin. Apply it after the shower and before sleeping to keep your foundations nice and healthy.

4. Protect Your Skin

All surfers, regardless of the weather conditions, are particularly exposed to the damaging effects of the sun.

You must always – and we mean always – apply a safe sunscreen, according to the instructions of the packaging, before you hit the water.

There are different types of sunscreen, so try around or ask your dermatologist to find the right one.

It’s always better to choose a different sunscreen for face and body, according to your skin type and sun exposure.

While we don’t remember it until we get a sunburn, the vulnerable skin on our heads also needs protection. There are sprays, sticks, and oils specifically created to protect it.

Choose the best one for your hair type and stick to this step, as melanoma in the scalp is rare but more dangerous than in other parts of the body.

Other useful measures are covering your head or pulling your hair up in a ponytail to hide your part and keep it from sunburn.