The happiness of a surfer
In winter in the US and Chile, the sea water is cold from 13-15 degrees Celsius. I wear wetsuit to practice every day. One day, the waves went up high and then broke down, the wind headed to the beach.
I could not surf anything but swim back and forth miserably for two hours. I was drowned to the bottom by the waves and shuddered on the shore with the cold.
If it takes you a year to not be afraid of drowning, half a year to not be hit by the waves in your face and choke the sea water. Or for the next half year to sit miserably waiting for the wound from the fin of the leg cut. Then there will be times when you wonder, what does surfing bring in the end?
I read an article in the New York Times by a writer who had difficulty walking describing the joys of surfer. That was when she sat on the shore and watched the players surf in the ocean. The joy that she witnessed the practitioner playing often lasted from a few seconds to more than ten seconds, for hours struggling with the sea.
The length of the beach from the rocky head to the last wave is about 400m long. The most perfect surfer can surf the entire length of the beach in just over 10 seconds.
Surfers often spend most of their time swimming, sitting on the board and waiting for a good wave, to avoid other people surfing towards them. That the power is exchanged for 30-50 seconds to stand upright on the waves, rushing forward at high speed.
Those costs make me happy. Seeing himself healthy enough together with waves for several hours a day. After nearly ten seconds of excitedly step up, glide away and see the wave going straight with me.
The happiness of the surfer is not counted by the amount of effort it takes and the amount received. If you plan on that much, everyone surfing will probably give up after a week.